“Marvelous city, full of a thousand charms,” sang Aurora Miranda, in a 1934 Carnival hit that’s now Rio de Janeiro’s anthem. To put this song to the test, each year as many people visit Rio as live there—riding cable cars up to Pão de Açúcar, and trams through Santa Teresa; going inside belle epoque palaces at Cinelândia, and pleasure palaces at Copacabana; climbing to the Rocinha favela (shanty town) by minivan, and to “Christ the Redeemer” by train; shouting samba lyrics at the Sambódromo parade grounds, and “gol!” at Maracanã soccer stadium. In any other city, this would be exceptional. In Rio, you still have 992 delights to go.
